Machine for sewing linings to articles of clothing.



J. F. J; LENLER.

MACHINE FOR SEWING LININGS TO ARTICLES 0F CLOTHING.

APPLIUATION FILED APR. 22, 1911. 1,065,058, Patented June 17, 1913.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

P a r N E v W W p a A Tron/v5 vs.

J. F. J. LENLER.

MACHINE FOR SEWING LININGS T0 ARTICLES 01 CLOTHING.

APPLICATION FILED APILZZ, 1911.

1,065,058. Patented June 17, 1913.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WITNESS ES;

NVEN'IOH:

J. F. J. LENLER.

MAGHINE FOR SEWING LININGS T0 ARTICLES OF CLOTHING.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 22, 1911. 1,065,058, Patented June 17, 1913.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

wl wvsssss;

J. P. J. LENLER.

MACHINE FOR SEWING LININGS T0 ARTICLES 0? GLOTHING.

APPLICATION FILED APR.22,1911.

1,065,058, Patented June 17, 1913.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

Q Zi

JENS FREDERICK J'OI-INSEN LENLER, COPENHAGEN, DENMARK.

MACHINE FOR SEWING LININGS TO ARTICLES 01 CLOTHING.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented June 17, 1913.

Application filed April 22, 1911. Serial No. 622,739.

To all whom it may concern:

I Be it known that 1, Jane FREDERIK'J 011N- SEN LENLER, of 10 Kristianiagade, Copenhagen, in the Kingdom of Denmark, a subject of the King of Denmark, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for Sewing Linings to Articles of Clothing, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to a machine by means of which the lining can be sewed on to an article of clothing. Such sewing has to be in the form of invisible stitches and for this reason the ordinary sewing machines, which can only make visible stitches are not ingly necessary hither-to to make the linings by hand.

In the machine, which constitutes the subject matter of the present invention, the hand made seams are imitated, this being effected by passing through the material a sewing needle which is in all essential re spects' similar to an ordinary hand needle, but instead of moving the sewing needle-to so large an extent that the sewingthread threaded in the needle and drawn with the needle through the material is tightened, the

thread, after the front end of it has passed through the material is taken hold of by means of a special device and carried to the side in the form of a loop, the remainder of the thread being drawn through the material and the stitch pulled tight. During the work the needle is firmly held by two pairs of fingers arranged one behind the other and movable backward and forward, which,

' when they come on to the material in moving forward, alternately release the needle, are raised above the material, lowered and again seize the needle, when it has passed through the material, care of course being taken that the back pair of fingers shall not release the needle before the front pair has taken hold of the same. During the return movement of the'fingers the two pairs act simultaneously, as they hold the needle, are raised above the material and thereupon simultaneously lowered, whereupon the operation is repeated.

One form of the invention is shown in the drawings, in which Figure 1 is a plan of the machine, Fig. 2

55 is a side-elevation of the same, Fig. 3, an

rviceable, and it has been accordend-elevation partly in section, Fig. 4 is a plan-view of the carriage, in which the pair of fingers .is arranged, Fig. 5 is a vertical section, on line5, 5, in Fig. 4, Fig. 6 is a detail side-view showing the arrangement for moving'the carriage, Fig. 7 is a detail side-view of the finger carrier, Fig. 8, a vertical section, on line 8, 8, Fig. 7, Figs. 9 and 10 are details showing the arrangement for raising the finger-carrierssingly or simultaneously, Figs. 11 and 12 are, respectively, vertical transverse sections, on lines 11, 11, Fig. 9, and 12, 12, Fig. 10, Fig. 13 is a horizontal section, on line 13, 13, Fig. 12, Fig. 14, a plan of the presser-foot, Figs. 15 to 19 are details, whichv will be described later on, Fig. 20 is a detail side-view of the needle belonging to the machine, shown on an enlarged scale, and Figs. 21 to 23 illustrate diagrammatically the position of the needle in relation to the material during'tlie work, respectively by an end-elevation and a planview. A

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts throughout the several figures of the drawings.

The machine consists of two parts viz: the device for guiding the needle and the device for tightening the thread.

I Device for guiding the needZe.-On a table a, a fixed arm b is arranged which carries a smooth planed table 0 and two bearings (Z for a shaft 1, which is supported in a third bearing 9, andfurnished with a handwheel h or similar driving device. In the table 0 are two slots is and m both of which are perpendicular to the shaft f and above on the table 0,- a carriage n is arranged, on

the underside at which a projection 79 is seated, that descends through the slot 7: and is connected below the table 0 with one end of a slide rod 9, the other end of which is connected with a crank r on the shaft f (Fig. 6) When the shaft f is then rotated,

the carnage n is moved forward and backward 0n the table 0 and in fact controlled by the projection p which slides in the slot m.

In the carriage a are two parallel prismatic rods, the finger carriers s and t, which can slide up and down in the recesses 00 in the carriage, and on the one side are'furnished with a guiding edge a, that slides in a groove 1) in the carriage and below with a pin an that goes down through a hole :1; in

ing the needle when they close up around it. .The finger 21 is pressed over toward the finger z-lay means of a-spring 23, which is placed around. a threaded pm 25 and the tension of which can be regulated by means of a nut 24 on the outer end of the pin 25. This pin is attached to the rod 2 and passed through a hole in the finger 21. The upper ends of the finger 21 are connected by means of tension rods 26 with two levers 27 and 28, which are rotatably seated on a pivotrod 29 seated on the carriage n. Vhen the l'owerends of these levers are pressed in toward the carriage (Fig. 2) the particular finger 21 is forced away from-the finger z, and the needle 22 is liberated. The levers 27 and 28-are actuated at suitable moments by the one arm 30 of a double arm lever that pivots around a pin 31, the other arm 32 of the lever being actuated by stops 33 or the like on the shaft 1 s The mech anism employed for raising the finger carriers singly (Figs. 3, 9 and 11), consists, in a plate 34, thatis guided in a sleeve 35, can slide up and down in the slot m and is connected with a .lever 36, 37 that pivots around a pin 38 on thetable c. The lever arm 37 carries a tooth 39 which can be actuated by two stops 40 seated on the shaft f, and which are of such form and so placed that the plate 34 can be raised at the right moment. If the plate is raised, it strikes on the one of the pins w, which at the momentis above it, and one of the finger carriers s or t is thereby raised. When the pin 20 has passed the upper edge of the plate 34,

the finger carrier dropsv down. again, being actuated by a spring 41- Whichis arranged between the finger carrier and a plate 42, the position of which can' be regulated by means of a nut 44 arranged on ascrew 43 in thex'carriage' n. Thespring41 is located in front of the-i screw 43," as: shown in F ig- 2.

\Vhen the nut 44 isE turned," the tension of the springs :41, is regulated (each of the finger carriers has its spring).-

The mechanism empl oyed for raising both fingercarriers simultaneously (Figs. 3, 10,

and 13) consists of'a guide 45, which is arrangedfm:the slot mr-near the" sleeve 35,-

and f carries at one end a pin 46 which is guided in -a hole in the tablerc and at:the"

otherendranuidev ieee 47-that lies a 'a'inst the side of the slot 'm. -i::1 he guide 45: car-. TICS nearly .inthemiddle a downward rune position.

ning arm 48 which has a, flange 49, that can slide in a slot in a fixed guide piece 50 seated on the bottom of, the table 0.

On the pin 38 a lever 51, 52 is pivoted, one arm of which can act on the-bottom of the guide 45, its other arm being actuated by a stop 53 on the shaft f. The place for the stop 53 and the form of the arm 52 are such that the guide can be raised at the right moment.

\Vhen the guide 45 is raised the upper edge thereof strikes against the pins to and thereby both finger carriers 8 and t are raised. As long as the stop 53 acts on the arm 52 the guide45 remains in the raised \Vhen the stop releases the arm 52, the finger carriers and the guidedrop under the action of the springs 41.

For the purpose of preventing the needle 22 from sliding back when it is pressed into the material the back part which is extended beyond-the eye of the needle .(see Fig. 20) is supported in a recess in a pin 54 (Flg. 3)

that is arranged in a sleeve 55 connected ward that the pin 54 comes against the material that is to be sewed, the sewing needle has passed through the material and 1s seized by both pairs of fingers, and the pawl 56 is now released from the pin 54 the pawl striking against a fixed stop 57 (Fig. 3), so that during the further forward movement of the carriage the pin 54 slides back into the sleeve. The pin 54 remains in the drawn back position until shortly before the backward mov ent of the carriage is ended, the two pairs of fingers have assumed their normal lowered position. At the same time the back end of the pin'54 comes against a fixed stop 58 and is thereby moved forward again, its recessed part sliding over the back end of the needle.

As will be seen from Figs. 21 to 23 the material which is to be sewed is arranged over an armor frame 59 where it is embraced by a fork-shaped holder- 60, which is seated on a resser-foot 61.- This is fixed to a spring actuated-rod 63 that is movable: in 'a tube 62 and that can be-raised orlowered,.whereby the presser-footis put innorf seated on the rod63. b,

out of action by means of a cam leverf that i, I ,-p1vots arounda pin .64 and lsufurnished -w1t'h a, handle 65- and acts on a put '67.,"

- The presser-foot acts in combination with a feed-devlce 68 of a known-k1nd.- :Its 3611-;

rated part comes up through an opening-in:

the table a and is seated ona-rodaGt) onev end ofavhich engages a pin 71 by meansofuafork 70, while the other endlis furnished." with flanges 72 and 73' which by jmeansof springs 74- and 75- are pressed against :cams

7 6 and 77 on a rotary shaft 78. When the latter rotates the feed-device swings up and down and is simultaneously uided forward and backward. The material between the feed device and the resser-foot is thereby drawn along the length of a stitch forward and over the arm or frame 59. The direction of the pull forms anangle (Fig. 23) with the longitudinal axis of the needle.

The shaft 78 is arranged below the table a and carries a toothed wheel 79, which is driven by a toothed wheel 81, seated. on the shaft f, through an intermediate wheel 80.

The mechanism described above acts in the following manner-: \Vhen the front pair of fingers reach the material stretched over the frame or arm 59 (see Fig. 21, in which 86 indicates the lining that is to be sewed on to the cloth 87), the lever 2.7 is exactly in front of the arm and at the same time the arm 32 is actuated by one of the stops 33, whereby the arm 30 is swung in toward the lever 27, which latter is rocked and moves the corresponding finger 21 from the fixed finger z, theneedle being released. A pin 82 seated on the finger 21 is engaged by a s ring operated angle-lever 83, 84, when t e finger has been turned. The hookshaped arm 83 of this lever. goes over the pin 82,

whereby the finger is held in the open position, so that the front pair of fingers can be raised without damaging the needle. The. raising is effected by means of the plate 34, which as previously mentioned is set in action. When the needle has passed through the material the finger carrier 8 is lowered again and the lever 81 strikes agaiiist a stop 85 adjoining the table 0, so that the hook 83 is released and releases the pin 82, whereby the finger 21 catches,'under the action of its spring 23, against the needle and seizes it. A precisely similar series of operations is effected with the back pair 'of fingers, which are opened, raised lowered and closed. The needle is now drawn through the material and is again held by the two pairs of fingers, which continue the movement to a slight extent forward, drawing the sewing thread after them. Atthis. point the sewing thread is drawn tightly but as the device for this operation has not yet been described, its actionvis at present passed over, and consequently here the movement of the fingers back to the starting position is followed. Simultaneously with the beginning of the return movement of the carriage the guide 45 is raised bythe previously'described mechanism (Figs. 10 and 12) and both finger carriers are thereby raised simultaneously without the'pairs of fingers being opened.- This raising can be effected without the needle being damaged, because at this point therear end of the needle is not only freefrom material but also from therecess in the pin 5%. (Fig. 3) p which has remained behind the material without hindrance and with raised finger carriers until the guide45 is lowered, whlch occurs immediately before the pin 54 strikes against the stop 58, and the rear end of the needle can then slide freelyin the recess in the pin, which is thereupon seized by the and the arm 59. The carriage a slides back g pawl 56 and during the forward movement of the carriage can be a point of support fo the needle 22. V

IL. The device for drawing the sewing thread tightlyp lhis part of the machine consists of a lever 92, 90.pivoted to a fixed support'89, the shorter arm 90 of which is connected with a crank 91 on the shaft f; while the longer arm 92, the form of. which is such that it can be swung over the shaft f and the table a carries a hook shaped finger 93. The slide rod 94of the crank 91 is not directly connected with the arm 90 but with. a'slide piece 95 which can slide in bearings 96 and carries a pin 97. This pin is surrounded by two fork arms on the arm 90 and when the shaft f is rotated the lever 90, 92 swings forward and backward, thehook 93 describing an arc of a circle. The

conditions are such that the hook 93 is between the needle carried through the material and the material bent over the arm or frame 59, and at the same time, the carriage it takes the extreme position, and the hook is of such a form that it can take hold below the thread between the sewing needle and the material. When the hook has seized the thread, the lever arm 92 swings back and thereby draws the sewing thread with it in a loop. The back pair of fingers grips the needle 22 directly in front of the eye of the needle and thus clamp the sewing thread against the needle whereby the tlfread is prevented from being drawn out throi'igh the eye of the needle. Conseipiently when the arm 92 swings out the sewing thread is drawn throughthe material, until the stitch is tightened. As the sewing thread becomes shorter wlth each stitch care must be taken that the hook 93 shall release the drawn out loop at an earlier and earlier moment. This can beinsured by making the'hook 93 spring-y but the also be employed, by means of which the "hook 93 can be rotated at a suitable moment in'such a manner that the thread loop slides out of the hook. For this purpose the hook is arranged on a rotary crank 101 seated in a head 100 on the arm 92, and held by a spring 102 against the one arm 103 of a lever that pivots around a pin 101 on the arm 92, and the other arm of which 105 is carried over the arm 92 and terminated in a perpendicular plate 106 with a pin 10?.

On the table a, a frame 108 is arranged in which a screw is pivotally seated, which is the hook 93, so that the hook 93 is turned connected by means of a suitable toot-h gearmg 110 with a shaft 111, that carries a ratchet wheel 112. On the shaft 111 a bracket 113 is suspended that carries a pawl 114 which engages with the ratchet wheel, and by means of a driving rod 115 is con-' nected with the arm 92. At each outward movement of this arm a slight suitable rotary movement is imparted to the screw 109. On the frame 108 of the screw 109 a carriage 116 slides (Figs. .16 and 17) which, contains the nut for the screw 109, and thus every time the arm moves out the carriage 116 is moved slightly toward the shaft f. On the carriage 116 a plate 118 is arranged by means of two bolts 117 and forms a downward directed arm 119. \IVhen the arm 92 swings outward the plate 106 strikes against the lower end of the arm 119, and thereby the lever 103, 105 swings somewhat in the perpendicular plane, this movement being transmitted through the crank 101 to downward to such an extent that it releases the loop of the sewing thread. The plate 106 being lowered, its pin 107 is seized by a lever 121 seated on the arm 92 and pivots around a pin 120, this lever being operated by a spring 122, and the plate 106 therefore does not strike against the arm 119 when the lever 92 swings back toward the shaft During the whole period of this movement of the arm 92 the hook 93 thus assumes the lowered position but when the arm 92 has reached its inner limit position in which the hook 93 is below the tightened sewing thread tha-eis being conveyed from .the needle22 to the material, a stop 123 seated on the lever 121 strikes against a fixed stop 124; on the frame 108, and the lever 121 is thereby turned back so that it is released from the pin 107. The lever 103, 105 with cranks 101' swings back under the action of the spring 102, and the hook 93 is. turned upward so that it. seizes the sewing thread. At each stitch the arm 119 is pushed a little towardthe shaft f, and each time the arm 92 moves out the hook 93 is always released earlier and earlier from the loop of the sewing thread. If the conditlons are properly arranged the thread cannot be broken during the operation of tightening it.

In order that the carriage may be moved to its limit position quickly when, during the sewing, it has reached the inner limit, the nut 125 of the screw 109 (Fig. 16) is arranged in the carriage so as to move up 7 and down and carries a pin 126 with a head 127, that runs through the plate 118, by means of which the nut 125 can be put out of engagement with the screw 109. For its engagement with the screw the nut is operated by means of a spring.

I claim: v

1. A machine for sewing linings to articles of clothing, which comprises a reciprocating carriage, two pairs of fingers supported on the same and adapted to grip the sewingneedle singly or jointly, means for opening the fingers in -pairs and lowering and closing them around the needle during the forward motion of the carriage, means for raising and lowering both pairs of fingers when the carriage is moved backward, and an oscillating and upwardly and downwardly mtating hook, adapted to engage the sewingthread between the needle and the material and impartthe proper tension for pulling the thread through the material and tightening the stitch.

2. A machine for sewing linings to articles of clothing, which comprises a reciprocating carriage, two pairs of fingers supported on the carriage, finger-carriers for the fingers, guides for said finger-carriers, a driving shaft, a lever-mechanism operated by the driving-shaft for opening the pairs of fingers, a spring for closing them for gripping the needle, a tension-hook, and means between the 'drivingshaft and said hook for imparting an oscillating motion and simultaneously therewith an up and down rotating motion to said hook for engaging the sewing-thread between the needle and the material and tightening the stitch.

3. In a machine for sewing linings to articlesof clothing, the combination of a reciprocating carriage, two pairs of fingers each movable finger, spring-actuated anglelevers adapted to engage said pins and hold the fingers in open position, a fixed stop for actuating said angle-levers and closing the pair of fingers at the proper time.

4. In a machine for sewing linings to articles of clothing, the combination, with the stitch-forming instrumentalities, of a tension-hook, a fulcrumed lever-arm supporting said hook, means for oscillating said arm, means for imparting simultaneously an up and down rotating motion to. said hook, and means for movingthe fulcrumed arm successively nearer to the innermost limit of position of the arm as the sewing-thread is shortened during the sewing operation.

5. In a machine for sewing linings to articles of clothing, the combination, with the stitch-forming instrumentalit-ies, of a tension-hook, a fulcrumed lever-arm carry- 6. In a machine for sewing linings to articles of clothing, the combination, with the stitch-forming instrumentalities, of a thread tension-hook, a fulcrumed lever-arm supporting the same, means for oscillating said lever, a second lever fulcrumed to the oscillating lever, means for imparting an upwardly and downwardly swinging motion to said lever, and mechanism for interrupting the connection between the lever-arm and lever for releasing the second lever and swinging the hook upwardly for engaging the sewing-thread.

7. In a machine for sewing linings to articles of clothing, the combination, with the stitch-forming instrumentalities, of a pin for receiving the sewing-needle, a reciprocating carriage, a sleeve on said carriage for supporting said pin,- a recess in said pin for receiving the sewing-needle in its forward motion, a pawl fulcrumed to said sleeve for holding said pin, means for engaging the rear-end of said pin for moving it forward into its normal position when the carriage is moved 1n backward direction.

In testimony, that I claim the foregoing as my invention, I have signed my name'in presence of two subscnblng witnesses.

JENS FREDERIK JOHNSEN LENLER.

Witnesses E. BOUTARD, P. HOFMAN-BANG. 

